Madonna has a reputation for its après ski that rivals that for its actual skiing. 'People Watching' begins as soon as the lifts close and many of the resort's more wealthy clientelle appear togged up to the nines already to parade in fur coats with dogs that seem smaller than any canine species previously known to mankind. In most places around the resort the bars and restaurants retain quiet sophistication until the small hours, when the legendary nightclubs really start to buzz, some staying open through to the time when the lifts re-open in the morning if you're visiting at a busy holiday weekend. Among the less pretentious and more lively bars are the Cliffhanger and later the Des Alpes discotheque. Further up-market are the Cantina Suisse which is popular for cocktails until 7pm and then has live music until midnight. The well heeled may then head off to the Zangola, 3km (two miles) from the resort centre (it lays on transportation) which is famous for its wild nights.